on jeju island
By Christine Baek B’25
Illustration by Pauline Cooper
Old women count shells along a blue-green coast
calloused fingers clutching bitjaang sickles for abalone
jaksal spears for hairtail.
Nylon strings embroider their chests and arms.
Sisters and daughters dive for sea urchins
wetsuits melt into ocean waves.
The bobbing taewak gourds
like scattered fistfuls of tangerines
marking each mermaid’s hunting ground.
You visit the day of February’s full moon
when the gods bless the haenyeo divers with
calm seas, a rich harvest—
fruits from the golden scales of the
dragon yongwang, whom the shaman
welcomes with baskets of millet seeds.
Women worshippers weave
white cotton and bamboo boats
to set adrift at dusk.
They exhale prayers like smoke.
Hunched bodies meld to buttery shoreline
like drips of wax.
One mermaid kneels before a pool of sea grapes
severing luminous bulbs from seaweed netting
her electric blue flippers catching sunlight
as saltwater dissolves into the folds of her skin.
She looks up at you, once, to mouth vowels obscured
by the sound of water.
She offers you shells with sun-warmed ridges
to pry apart and press to your lips. you wrap
the shell in the soft-meat of your palm
as the haenyeo fit you into a spare wetsuit.
Your body suctioned beneath its second skin.
When she pulls you under, you imagine her words
coalesce, her persimmon face pressing against plastic goggles.
Water pressure builds against black-rubber bodies, elastic lungs.
A way of speaking with no words at all.
Clusters of moon jellyfish tangle—
decaying phosphorescence. suckers on
an octopus tentacle pulsate timidly
in a shark’s waning shadow.
The mermaids with hair like wild brown hijiki
eyes and teeth and lips like yours.
They hunt beneath the current, rising
to sow seeds of agar for the gods
and scrub artemisia into their lenses.
At dawn they scatter grains onto silk—
what of the dead must be done
for children of the living?
You surface with nothing.
Author’s Note:
Due to overfishing and climate change-caused ocean desertification, the practice of haenyeo diving is diminishing and the majority of Jeju’s mermaids today are over 70 years old. This poem is meant to highlight the beauty and fragility of this tradition which, along with its harvest rituals, are recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.